I found this tutorial on pinterest and I absolutely love this wallet. I've made 3 just this past week.
However, for whatever reason, I had a hard time following it. I had to keep referring back to different parts and keeping track of what piece went where...so I'm going to rewrite the tutorial in a way that makes more sense to me, if for no other reason than so I don't have to worry about losing the paper I wrote it on for my reference. Consider it a dumbed down version, if you will.
One thing that I LOVE about this wallet is you can have it all from the same fabric, use 3 coordinating fat quarters, or a different print for each piece. There are tons of ways to make this wallet slightly different and it's so much fun. If you head over to the original tutorial you can see her option to add a zipper pocket to the outside of the wallet. I added the D-ring just because I often don't like to carry a purse so if I'm just running into a store I can clip my keys to the wallet to keep them together. You could even skip the zipper pocket on the inside if you need more credit card slots. There are so many possibilities for this, especially when you take into consideration the awesome fabric combinations you could do.
Note: I've also been experimenting with different interfacing. In this tutorial I have listed my personal preferences based on wallets I have made. I've also used Pellon 72F which is a really sturdy interfacing, for A1 (for the cherries wallet) which made it seriously hard to turn so I don't recommend it, but it does make it really stiff and sturdy.
For this wallet I added fusible vinyl to A1 and F which is nice since I have a messy 2 year old.
Here are the pieces you'll need to cut out. The ones with a * next to it you'll also add interfacing to.
A1 - 8.5" x 9" Main Outer * 8" x 8.5" fusible fleece
A2 - 8.5" x 9" Main Inner * 8" x 8.5" fusible fleece
B- (6) 8.5"x 4.5"
- inside of zipper pocket
- outside of zipper pocket
- inside of zip pocket
- inside of slip pocket (on the backside of zipper pocket) * lightweight interfacing
- CC slip * lightweight interfacing
- CC slip (will be back of B5)
D - 8.5" x 3.5" * 8.5" x 3" lightweight interfacing
E - 8.5" x 3" * 8.5" x 2.5" fusible fleece
F - Snap tab
G - D-ring loop
RST = Right Sides Together
WST = Wrong Sides Together
WSO = Wrong Sides Out
RSO = right sides out
SA = Seam Allowance
1. Apply interfacing to all pieces. For A1 and A2 I centered it, so that there wouldn't be as much bulk once it's all sewn up. For C, D, and E I lined it up with the bottom leaving half an inch on the top without interfacing, again, to remove bulk.
2. Take piece C, fold over the top (8.5" side that isn't interfaced) 1/4", press, then fold 1/4" again. Press well and top stitch. Repeat for D and E.
3. Take B5 and B6, RST, sew 1/4" from top only.
4. Place C on top of B7 making sure the tops are parallel. This is more important than lining up the bottom as those will be caught in the SA later. I use one of those cardboard credit cards that come in junk mail, put it in place and line up the top with where you want the pocket, draw a line under the bottom of the card and stitch along that line. This won't be seen so I don't worry about the pen markings. Now put D on top of that, and do the same thing. Put E on top and baste at the bottom.
5. Measure 4.25" from the side (should be exact center). Either use disappearing ink, chalk, or use a pen and just put a small dot every inch or so...just along pieces C, D, and E. Sew from bottom to the top of C along that line, forming the credit card slots. Baste just at the edges on sides and bottom and put aside for now.
6. Grab B1. Draw a 1/2" rectangle on wrong side of fabric, 1" from top and sides (6.5" line centered). You'll draw the top line 1" down from the top but stopping an inch from each side, then draw another identical line 1/2" below that, and connect at the sides.
Tack down the triangles inside to B1 (marked in red).
7. Now you'll install the zipper. I'm still new at zippers, so forgive me if I'm not the best at explaining. I used a 9" zipper, which is too long. I like having the zipper start too long so that I can cut those pesky metal parts off. So lay that piece over the zipper and mark outside of where the little window is. Stitch back and forth a few times over the teeth then cut off the ends.
Grab a glue stick and some scrap paper and lay the zipper down with the B1/B2 piece over it. I used clips on either end to hold the zipper in place then folded down the top of the fabric, put some glue on the zipper where it will attach to fabric. Lay the fabric back down and press to make sure the zipper stays put. Repeat this for the bottom then either side of the zipper.
8. Take B3 and B4, WST. Place on top of zipper portion, with B2 (with zipper) facing B4. Sew top only, 1/4" SA. Flip, press, top stitch along that seam. Baste close to edge on other 3 sides.
9. Take G, fold lengthwise, and stitch along length. Using a small safety pin or loop turner, turn RSO. Put seam along middle and press. Put it through a D-ring and baste at the top of credit card pockets, raw edges out.
10. Take F, RST sew around 3 sides. Clip corners, turn and press. Top stitch along those 3 sides.
11. Take A2 and place the zip pocket and CC pockets in place. Baste. (Not in pictures, my preference is to add the snap tab now, instead of through the turn opening like the original tutorial as I think it has a neater seam at the end and I didn't want to topstitch on this particular wallet.)
12. Put snap on A1 about 1.5" down and centered. Put A1 RST on A2. Place pins about 1.5 from edges, opposite from snap side. This will be your opening to turn. Pin the rest along the raw edges.
13. Carefully sew all around with about a 5/8" SA all but in between the pins. A while back I found this nifty trick that helps to turn in the SA at the opening...when you start and stop, sew from that point straight out to the edge of the fabric. This will help guide the SA inside once turned. Also, I like to backstitch 2-3 stitches on each side of the corners just to help reinforce them.
14. Clip corners and carefully turn RSO through the opening. Carefully poke out the corners and using lots of steam and a hot iron press really well (don't iron over plastic snaps!)
15. Press SA inward. Now there are two ways you can finish this...you can hand stitch the opening closed (though this isn't possible if you follow the original tutorial for adding F) OR you can simply top-stitch around the entire wallet, closing the opening in the process.
If you top-stitch, starting at open edge, carefully and slowly top-stitch, back-stitching over where the tab is for reinforcement. You may have to use the hand wheel at the corners. Go really slow, especially towards the corners, and make sure you don't skip any stitches (I find it's easy to skip stitches when there are that many layers). You may even want to use a leather needle or switch out to a new needle before doing the top-stitching.
16. Close wallet and put F over snap so you can figure out where to place the other side of the snap on the tab. I use a seam ripper and just sit it on the tab in the center of that snap to make sure I have the right spot, then use the seam ripper to CAREFULLY poke a tiny hole for my snap. Install the snap.
And you're done!
Here is another wallet I made with this tutorial, I also made a matching purse which will be in a new blog post coming soon!
I hope you enjoyed this tutorial! It was my first time writing one so hopefully it was easy to understand. If you make one please share with me, I'd love to see what you all come up with!
I'll be putting some wallets in my Etsy shop, and you can follow me on Facebook for updates!